Grant the Scot and the Greek presence in Scotland

It was a typical Scottish day, just before the start of summer…cold, windy, rainy, and then of course the sun came out. This phenomenon repeated over and over again. As I made my way, alone, in the Scottish Highlands, I couldn’t help but think of Grant the Scot.

Grant…A Greek in all but name
Historian Sir Steve Runciman has in recent times identified Grant as a Scot who played a pivotal role in medieval Greek folklore. Previously, there was debate as to whether he was actually German. Runciman however makes it clear that he was Scottish, and the only Scotsman to fight for the Byzantine Greeks in 1453, during the siege of Constantinople.

Johannes Grant had somehow made his way, alone, just as I had in the Highlands, to the city of Constantinople to fight for the Emperor, Constantine Paliaologos. His heroic deeds in locating enemy Ottoman mines and launching counter mines beneath the City walls saved Constantinople for a period of 4 weeks before its capture. Grant was a Scottish adventurer and engineer who made his name in Germany. As Scotland was not widely known in Constantinople during his sojourn there, he fascinated the Greeks of the city.

His adventures provided me with much food for thought whilst I was in Scotland. Are there many Greek speakers in the country that gave us Sir Alex Ferguson and the Loch Ness monster? I paid a visit to Edinburgh and was able to take in the Greek Church and a Greek restaurant. I was told that there are anywhere from 2,000-6,000 Greeks living in Scotland at any one time. Almost half are students from Greece, and as the economic crisis continues to grow there, it is expected more people will find their way here.

Edinburgh
My cousin Argyris Georgopolous lived and studied in Edinburgh for 4 years (1997-2001). He told me once that the city is considered the ‘Athens of the north.’ Indeed, in the UK, Edinburgh is seen by idealists as a type of ‘Athens’ due to its long intellectual and artistic history. Edinburgh was the main city behind the Scottish Enlightenment 1730-1800, with Voltaire once stating that civilisation looks to Scotland (and Edinburgh) for ideas.

Edinburgh is a beautiful medieval, romantic city. One could propose to their partner here (as I once nearly did) or just get lost amongst the amazing array of beautiful buildings. In some respects, it is quite similar to what I would come across in some of the bigger Greek cities. And of course there is a certain warmth and charm about the Scottish people, traits you will similarly find amongst the Greek people.

Argyris undertook English language studies and and English Literature at the University of Edinburgh. When we spoke, he fondly recounted his time in Edinburgh, the first city he had lived in outside of Greece. My cousin told me that he made a conscious decision to immerse himself in the local culture. ‘I had no interest in recreating the Greek culture abroad,’ he confessed. He was interested in meeting people from abroad and locally, learning about them and further improving his English. Although he was adept at English and French, it did take him a few months to work out the Scottish dialect and colloquialisms, but not before his Scottish friends had made certain of teasing him with local phrases.

For Argyris, whose grandmother was English writer and Phil Hellene Sheelagh Kanellakopoulo, it was an incredible experience, being grateful that he chose Edinburgh over any other city. Coming from Athens where it is mostly a homogenous city, Edinburgh was a taste of cultural diversity in an English language environment. These days, Argyris calls London home, however, Edinburgh will always be a special place in his heart.

Local Greek Orthodox Church
The Greek Orthodox Church of Edinburgh (Saint Andrew) is an interesting one, as it represents not just the Greek community. It also represents English, Scottish, Russian, Serbian, Romanian and other groups. The Church promotes the cultural heritage of Greece whilst welcoming people from different backgrounds.

An encouraging feature of the Church is that a good percentage of its congregation is made up of young students who are transient from Greece and other Orthodox countries. Visitors can make use of the cultural centre, attend meetings and lectures. The Church also provides outreach and care for the homeless.

There is a Greek School connected with the Church, offering instruction in Greek language and history. This is similar to what I have witnessed in places like Astoria in New York, were the Church plays a leading role in promoting the Greek language.

The Orthodox Church in Scotland was established in 1922 by the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople and is under the Archdiocese of Thyateira and Great Britain.

Whilst my visit to Scotland was aimed at visiting the home of Grant the Scot, I was pleasantly surprised to find the Greek Orthodox religion and language is being taught here.

A Greek – Scottish Connection
To the best of my research the first Greek ‘visitors’ to Scotland were Hellenes from Argos who joined an English invasion of that country in 1545. The Greeks were led by Thomas of Argos whose courage and valour was heralded by Nikandros Noukios, a famous traveller from Corfu.

It was Winston Churchill who once said, “Of all the small nations of this earth, perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind.” That is a big call, of course, comparing Scotland with Greece. One is an ancient country with almost 5000 years of contributing to civilisation’s advancement. The other is about 2000 years old and has made its mark on the world during relatively more recent times in medieval and modern history. Any comparison with ancient and medieval (Byzantine) Greece is difficult, for any country, let alone the country of Johannes Grant.

I have always marvelled at how resilient the people of Scotland are, they laugh in the face of adversity, and they understand the concept of being strong willed and proud. Traits that also held in high regard throughout the Greek world. When the Greeks, along with Grant defended the walls of Constantinople in 1453, they all displayed those qualities. Grant’s jovial and easy going nature endeared him to many of the Greek defenders.

The most famous Greek resident in Scotland is the soccer player, Giorgos Samaras who was born in Heraklion, Crete. He moved to Glasgow in January 2008 and plays for Celtic, having appeared in almost 200 matches for his club. Judging by his contribution to this famous club, it is likely he will be here for many years to come.

Scotland is one of the picturesque places anyone could hope to visit. The friendly people, the castles, the beer, and the kilts make for a fascinating visit. In some respects, the distinct culture of Scotland is somewhat similar to Greece. Just think about ‘philoxinea’ (Greek hospitality), the tsouliades (the traditional Greek dress for men), the ability to have a good time even when times are tough, and the resilience of both people. These are just some of the commonalities. Even though Grant did not wear a kilt, and nor did the defenders of Constantinople wear tsoulia outfits, it is interesting that men from both countries have these styles of national dress, a defining feature in modern identity for both.

Something else that caught my interest is the unfinished national monument that dates back to the 1820’s to honour Scottish people who died in the Napoleonic wars. Due to a lack of funds, the monument which is modelled on the Parthenon, was never finished. The Edinburgh version of the Parthenon is at Carlton Hill and any attempt to complete the project is usually met with a mixed reception by politicians and the public alike.

Doric Connection
The dialect of the Lowland Scottish people is known as Doric, a reference to the Doric Greek spoken in ancient Sparta. The Lowland Scots are known as being a tough and proud people, similar to the mighty Spartans. However, I met a Scottish person who felt compelled to tell me that the ‘Doric’ is a meant to signify the Lowland speakers as speaking a less than poetic form of English in comparison to the rest of Scotland. This negative stereotype was similar to how the ancient Athenians viewed their rivals, Sparta, to stir up their opponents (history, of course, tells us what a bad move this was as the Spartans defeated Athens in the Peloponnesian War).

The Greek
I have spent 4 years in the UK (and many more years travelling abroad) and I can’t recall too many occasions were I have been called Greek. As it is, I am also Australian and this is what people abroad typically know me as. Ironically, in Scotland, I was referred to as a Greek! In Fact, I met some Australian people there and they too thought I was just a ‘Greek.’ It’s as if Scotland knew me better than I know myself, in terms of my nationality.

As I made my way to the train station in Edinburgh for my trip back to London, I was sporting a big smile. In Scotland, I had seen enough to know that the Greek presence can make its way everywhere in the world as can the Scottish. Grant knew he was the token Scotsman in a Greek city and for a few days, I felt like I was the token Greek in Scotland.

BIG Greek Hearts Beating Greek Rhythms: A Hellenic Identity in Beirut

Known to many as the Paris of the Middle East and the birthplace of the Alphabet, Beirut is a bastion of Arab culture. Night life, good food, plastic surgery offices and fast cars epitomise this city. It is hard to imagine that this hustling, bustling city, with its crazy drivers and soldiers dotted around key points, has a long, unbroken connection, with Greece. I say unbroken as there has been a Greek presence here since before Megas Alexandros and his all conquering military captured Tyre in 332 BC.

On my first night here, I was invited by Ms Marilena Caponis and her family to dine with them at a Lebanese restaurant on the outskirts of Beirut. It was a night I won’t forget. After hours of Arabic dancing, shisha and never ending food, the band whose singer spoke Greek, played a number of Greek tunes. As the entire restaurant stopped to watch as my hosts put on a show of Greek dancing, it hit me…. that the Greek culture in this Arabic heartland is still evident and going strong. Lebanon, like many countries in the Middle East has long been associated with conflict and foreign occupiers. It seems though this has failed to stop the Greek culture for being maintained in one form or another.

Ancient

In classical times when the Greeks were conquering territories in Europe, Asia and Africa, Lebanon was overlooked. It was the domain of the Phoenicians, the people who gave us the Alphabet and purple dye. I have no doubt that the Lebanese are drawn from many different people, and it is hard to argue that some are not the descendents of the Phoenicians. Whilst the Greeks had a trading presence in Lebanon, mainly through Athens and the Ionians, it wasn’t until Alexander that the Hellenes gained control of this region; the gateway to Asia.

After the death of Alexander, his general Seleucis established the Seleucid (Hellenistic) Kingdom out of Syria, lasting until the First Century BC when the Romans took control. The Greek speaking Byzantine Empire regained control by the 4th Century AD and for the next 500 years, they fought with the medieval Persians and then the emerging Arab tribes for control of Lebanon.

The last time that Byzantium held any real power in Lebanon was under Basil II during the 11th Century for a brief period. Looking over the Byzantine period, and indeed as far back as that of Alexander, the Greek language was arguably the lingua franca of Lebanon and the local administration. What is harder to determine is when the Greek language was superseded by Arabic. It may have been overtaken by the 800’s, certainly, the Greek Orthodox religion remained strong here until well after the Crusaders came and went by the 13th Century.

The invasion of the Ottomans in the 15th Century added a new twist. Greek was the second
language of the Ottoman Empire and the Greek Orthodox religion for most of Sultans’ rule was tolerated (at least until the 19th Century). Greek Orthodox followers were ruled as a ‘millet’ (nation) by the Patriarch from Constantinople, which meant that Greek as a language played a strong role in a region with almost half the population adhering to the Greek Orthodox faith.

Beirut

With its history of conflict, not many people outside of the Middle East and Europe make the visit here, though when you do, it really is worth the trip. Beirut (Byrito), traditionally being a strong trading port on the Mediterranean and close to Cyprus, has naturally attracted many Hellenes.

The Ottomans did not undertake trading, hence this became dominated by Greeks, with many
finding their way to the Arab world. Even after the end of Ottoman rule, the Greek presence in Beirut remained.

Throughout the 20th Century, you could find Greek shops, tavernas, Greek bars and even a
Greek newspaper, in a sense bringing Athens to Beirut. In 1975 that all changed. According to Mr Dimitris Fellas, an active member of the Greek Community. The Civil War wasn’t just a disaster for Lebanon, it was a disaster for the Greek Community. He told me that most the Greeks were forced to leave to go to Greece or Cyprus. The once thriving Greek community of perhaps 50,000 had dwindled to just a small number by 1990 when hostilities ended. In the years that followed,the number of Greeks decreased even further. Today there are approximately 3,500, with many of them married to native Arab speakers, which may make it difficult to sustain the Greek culture in future generations.

I met a number of people in Beirut that shine like a beacon of hope in maintaining the Greek culture. In fact, if you listen to Yorghos and Eleny, you will think that Beirut is another Athens and nothing will ever erode Hellenism in this city.

Greek Community

Since 1945 there has been one constant for local Greek speakers, that of the Greek Community and also the Greek Community Club which is located opposite the port. I met with the former President of the Greek Community, Mr Takis Papadopoulos, committee member, Mr Costas Photiades, who was born in Beirut, and the Secretary, Ms Ariane Kodjabachi at the Club. They gave me an insight into the work they do. At its peak, there was a Greek School as part of the Community, however, it closed during the Civil War, which they described as the ‘katastrophe tis Elliniki Glossa.’

With no regular school, it was hard for the next generation of Greek children and youth to learn Greek, a fundamental element of maintaining the Greek culture. The Community does offer a teacher from Greece, Antypas Kyriacos, a man who has spent 13 years teaching Greek in Arab countries, including Egypt, Jordan, Dubai, and also in Germany. I met some of the children in his class and was impressed to see how young these kids were making an effort to learn Greek. In total there are 120 students of various levels.

The representatives of the Community indicated that 8 – 10% of Lebanese adhere to the Greek Orthodox faith, though it must be pointed that whilst many may have Greek origins, they are essentially Lebanese. Their view was that unless a new Greek school was built soon, it will be hard to ensure the survival of the Greek culture and language, especially as there is limited support from the Greek and Cypriot governments.

As I was staring outside the window overlooking the Port, Mr Photiades told me that the Greeks of Lebanon built what I was gazing upon, the port of Beirut. Indeed Greek engineers and workers have been involved in many such projects in Beirut over the years.

What can define an identity?

It can be difficult to provide an answer to that question. However, in Beirut, I found a simple answer. It is what is in your heart. I met with some of the Greek youth and their mentors, Marilena and Dimitris, who are both on the Committee of the Greek Club.

One such young person is Eleny Caponis who told me, ‘I couldn’t imagine myself not being
born Greek!’ Indeed, her mother Marilena is half Greek and half Lebanese, whilst her father is a Greek Diplomat born in Beirut. She was raised in a Greek environment as a child, however, after being enrolled at a French school, the Greek influences became less and less, having no Greek friends. It wasn’t until the age of 18 that she once again ‘woke up’ and re-discovered her Greek heritage. When she visits Greece with her younger sister, Andreana, she has a sense of belonging to Greece, a natural fit rather than a tourist visiting for their summer holiday. One of the first words Eleny learnt was ‘pandofles….’ for those Greek kids who were naughty, many a time
were the ‘pandofles’ brought out to good use. I also met Eleny’s partner who is half Lebanese and half Greek, indicative of a growing trend of local Hellenes having two cultures to draw upon.

Cousin Yorghos is an ever present with the Caponis family. When I met Yorghos, I felt I was staring at another Greek in Athens…. a relaxed demeanour, bearded, plate smashing, smoker who you will inevitably find dancing Zorba. I had an interesting conversation, one that gave me hope about the continued Greek presence and gave me a reality check at the same time. Over coffee he told that he ‘has high hopes for his children (one day)’ to maintain their Greek heritage and language. However, he felt that the future of local Hellenic culture is under threat and it could cease in the next two generations. To prevent this from happening, he believes that more young
people should be involved in the running of Hellenic affairs in Beirut, especially now that they have the will and determination to add value.

A Future

I was fortunate enough to meet a number of others from the youth group, whose ages range from their teens to the late 20′s, such as Anthony Semenoglou who found a connection to the culture through the youth group. They all meet once a week under the guidance of Marilena to learn Greek dancing. Many of the group had never learnt to dance as children. Marilena confided in me that Yorghos was shy initially, but now he is very much an extrovert and always happy to dance the night away!

Marilena is a real key to the maintenance of Hellenic culture in Beirut. Along with Dimitris, she is a mentor to the young people, and you can see not a mother figure or an aunt, rather she is someone who can engender the Greek ideals. Across Beirut she is known for her dedication to the Greek cause and as a dance choreographer/teacher. She is also the Coordinator of the internationally renown AUB (American University of Beirut) Folk Festival. I was amazed by the energy she has. True to her personality, she is a perfect fit for the Greek youth, in fact it is hard to separate her from the group as she is very much a friend. Marilena made the point, an obvious one, about how special Lebanon is and the fact she is proud of her beautiful country. She went
on to tell me that, ‘we are also Greek first.’ When you consider how difficult it is maintain a sense of Hellenism outside of Greece when your community is dwindling, it is somewhat an incredible statement and perhaps a sentiment that resonates across the Greek community here. In contrast, Dimitris tells me that he feels Greek, though, he believes he may be more Lebanese.

If you find the Greek youth on Facebook, you will be amazed at how active they have become. Regular Greek nights and reaching out to Hellenes across Beirut. The young people certainly appear to be leaders in the making. My hope is that the Greek and Cypriot governments and all members of the local community give them resources and support to help sustain Hellenism.

Another young man I met is George Eid. A product of the fusion of Greek and Arabic. His mother is Greek, tracing her ancestry back to Smyrna in Asia Minor (Turkey) and a great, grandmother from Samos. The uncle of his grandfather went to the US with Aristotle Onassis and wrote a letter to his friends about this ambitious young man!

George had a good understanding of Greek as a boy, with his grandparents speaking to him
in Greek and his cousins have held on to the language, making regular trips to Cyprus. He has spent a year in Cyprus though he confesses that his grasp of Greek is not what it should be these days. The first thing he said, which he reiterated after coffee, was that he feels Greek, as well as Lebanese. What was important for me is that he is 28 and a prominent political and social journalist. He told me something which was poignant to my story and that of the Greeks of the Diaspora, ‘You cannot destroy a history.’ And in Lebanon, the Greek history is there, for it was his grandfather who taught him the folk song, ‘Kounia Bella,’ something he will no doubt teach his
children one day. As we finished up he said to me, ‘Lebanon is a society of acceptance, no matter what the origins of people, it is a great place to be.’

Hellenism in Beirut has dealt with many obstacles over the past 2000 thousand years. Despite these obstacles it appears that the Greek spirit, matched by the Arabic tenacity, is ensuring that Hellenism remains a presence here. Its future depends now on the strength of the emerging young people, and when you think that a young Megas Alexandros spread Hellenism to these parts, I expect that the current generation will make a lasting contribution to Greek history. Beirut, may be the Paris of the Middle East, but it is also the Athens of this ancient region.

Astoria…Little Athens in the Big Apple

There is a place I know where one is surrounded by Greek shops and Greek speakers. A place were you can buy a yeeros, not a kebab. A place were old men can be seen playing with their kombologia at their usual table in MacDonald’s. This place I know would not be out of sync in Athens, except it’s in New York! Welcome to Astoria, just a 10-minute drive from Manhattan.

Greek Astoria

It was my first day in New York, my first ever visit to America, and it was freezing. To the point were my fingers had turned purple and Hellenic blue. I scrambled into the first Diner I could find…with a Greek flag!

I stepped into Michael’s Diner, desperate to have a coffee and a breather from the bitter cold outside. I was greeted by a friendly ‘Good morning’ by the waiter. Before I could reply in English, my Greek brain took over and I said a simple, ‘Kalimera.’ Within minutes I was talking to Antonis in Greek. From that moment on, I knew that my trip to New York would not be your typical tourist visit, it would be another Greek adventure. You see, I had decided to stay in Astoria , the traditional heart of the Greek community.

Astoria, home to over 17,000 people of Greek origin is the antithesis of New York. Lacking in tall buildings (the highest I could leap in a single bound was 4 stories) and devoid of the hustle and bustle one would find in Manhattan, Astoria has a different setting altogether. Covered in snow and divided down the main street by a rather unattractive air train, one can’t help being mesmerised by the Greek flavour in all its glory and a touch of Mexico and other migrant groups on the periphery. If its yeeros, souvlaki, Greek music and the Olympiakos shop you seek, Astoria is the place to be… Astoria is a real hub of the Greek community in the US, and it became my ‘home’ for a few days.

Before I continue, some history first. The area around Astoria was settled by German and Dutch settlers in the 16th Century, and was founded as a more permanent ‘village’ in 1839 as Hamlet’s Cove. It was renamed Astoria after a wealthy American, John James Astor invested in the ‘village’ and within a few decades it was dominated by Irish and then Italian migrants. According to journalist Dean Sirigos of Ethnikos Kyrikas (which is based in the area), Astoria started to take in a large influx of Greek migrants in the 1960′s. I had always believed that Boston had the biggest population of Greek speakers, but Dean was quick to show me that New York was the home of Hellenes in the US. He pulled out his Greek Directory and as an example showed me that there is approximately double the amount of Greek churches in New York than Boston, an indication of how many people the Greek Orthodox Church has to service.

Estimations place the number of Americans from Greek heritage in the US from 1.5 million to more than double that figure. When you take into consideration that Greek people have been migrating to the US in large numbers for 100 years, especially after the Asia Minor catastrophe in 1922, it is plausible that there could be such numbers. One thing is for certain, tens of thousands of Greeks came to America with little more than the shirts on their backs and they, like so many other migrant communities, worked industriously to build a new home for themselves and their children.

Saint Demetrios

I met Father Ioannis Antonopoulos at the impressive Saint Demetrios Church. He has written a book on the Greek history of Astoria, making him a real authority on the area. In his 44 years of being a priest he has seen people come and go in Astoria. Father Antonopoulos told me that many people come to Astoria and then move on every 10-15 years. He gave me a personal tour of the church which included a hall down stairs that was buzzing with volunteers working on a mail out. What impressed me was the sense of community, a sense of belonging by all the people associated with the Church. You could see it in their work, and the way they spoke, that they felt Astoria. As the Father told me, you are in the ‘Little Athens of America.’

The Church was completed around 1942, however, work had commenced in 1927, being slowed down by the Great Depression.

The Church also has a large Youth Adult Discussion group that meets every Thursday night, which is well attended. Other activities that have been organised by the Church include, mentoring, prayer groups, a regular bulletin, boy scouts and brownies, a music band in the 1990′s called the Saint Demetrios Band and the school which is located next door.

The Saint Demetrios School was built around 1957 to cater for the growing number of Greek speakers in the area. These days, the school offers classes for Grades 4 – 12 with approximately 700 students. For the Kindergarten – Year 4 students, the nearby Saint Kathryn Greek Orthodox Church, which was established in 1973, oversees them.

You must meet the Vibraphonist

When I had asked my friend, a talented translator from Greece, to tell me who was the most famous person she knew in Astoria, she said, ‘you must meet the Greek vibraphonist.’

New York is home to many famous and inspirational musicians. I was fortunate enough to meet Christos Rafilides through my friend. After a few days of non-stop Greek visits and eateries, I had been looking forward to having dinner at a ‘French’ restaurant. Little did I know that the French restaurant had been in existence for about 40 years as a Greek family owned business. The owner, asked me a question I hear countless times every year, do you know such and such in Australia, and to our mutual amazement, it was a close friend of mine from my student days.

Christos, who has just released his latest CD, ‘Blue November,’ is an acclaimed musician from Kastoria, Greece. His sound, Manhattan Vibes, is based on his unparalleled talent as a vibraphonist. I had the pleasure of watching him perform in Astoria in another French bar/restaurant owned by a Greek and was taken aback by his style and that of his band. His band consists of Peurto Rican, Italian and Greek cultural influences blending in to the American experience.

I asked Christos why he came to the US and it was his desire to grow as a musician at the prestigious Berkley College in Boston. That was at the age of 22, and since then he has released a number of musical works and toured extensively in Greece and the US. Some of the famous venues he has played at include Dizzy’s Coca Cola, Broadway, the Lincoln Centre and the Jazz Standard.

True to his roots, Christos returns to Greece 6 times a year for work and that ensures he never gets homesick. Having lived in Astoria for the last decade, the talented musician always feels like this is where he belongs. The food, the strength of the community, a good parea and of course the support he receives from local people ensures that is the case. On the night he played, I met not just local Greeks who were there to support him, I also met people from Greece who had come to New York as teachers and other professions to broaden their life experiences.

Food

There is always one aspect of Greek life that is perhaps the most significant, that rises above all considerations, and that is food. George Stamou is another Astoria local who has created a concept that taps into the famous Greek cuisine and appetite. The cleverly titled ‘The Cooking Odyssey,’ is a culinary television show that focuses on the Mediterranean diet and is filmed on location in Greece. It is hosted by chef Yianni Mameletzis, whilst the music on the show is composed by Christos, adding an extra element of Astoria to the series.

What is even more impressive about ‘The Cooking Odyssey’ is that it is filmed in an eco-friendly kitchen, designed by Effie Karambelas of Long Island. Most of the kitchen is made from recycled material with the appliances all being easy on the environment. You can follow the show on PBS in America.

Astoria has a number of Greek eateries scattered around various streets. From the bakery that made the cake in ‘My Big Fat Greek Wedding,’ to a Greek Bouzoukia run by Romanian gypsies, you can find just about any style of Greek food outlet here.

Famous Greek names from Astoria

Some of the other famous names to come out of Astoria, include singer and actor George Maharis (born 1928), comedian Ted Alexandro (born 1969), the incredible Maria Callas (born 1923) who spent her childhood years in Astoria and film director Tony Spiridakis (born 1959). Other famous names to come out of Astoria include Tony Bennett and Christopher Walken. As I am a slightly Greek focused, I tried my best to find a Hellenic link to these famous names. Sadly, they are not Greek!

Ditmar Boulevarde
It’s not every day that you spend time getting a personal tour with an actor. Antonis Armeftis came to the US from Cyprus. There was a large wave of migrants from Cyprus since the 1974 invasion of that island by Turkey and it is estimated that almost 30% of Greek speakers in Astoria are from Cypriot roots. I met Antonis at the Diner and over the next few days, he became not just my tour guide, but my friend in Astoria as he shared personal experiences of his neighbourhood with me, especially around Ditmar Boulevard, which follows the air train.

Antonis has revelled in the many roles he has played, from theatre to movies that include ‘Maid in Manhattan’ and ‘How to Lose a Guy in 10 days.’ When the work is scarce he entertains customers at Michael’s Diner. Fortunately for me, I was not only entertained, but I gained a real insight in the cultural hub that is Astoria. A charming man with a strong theatrical background meant that every time he took me on a visit to a new place, he was either swamped by people who knew him or just somehow created a slightly off beat situation. It was as if Astoria was his stage and I, and the community, were his audience.

I won’t forget being taken to the Greek supermarket to see what Greek products we could find. Within minutes, he was surrounded by fellow thespians and store workers each trying to get his attention. It was like a slapstick comedy being performed in front me, one person would want to arrange a meeting with him, whilst others just wanted to chat. All at the same time, an experience that simply reminded me of daily life in Athens.

Antonis took me to the Athens Square Park, which is just off Ditmar Boulevarde. The park was full of Greek statues and an ‘ancient’ Greek theatre, somewhat fitting when you consider who my host was. I marvelled at the fact that the Greek pillars are higher than any of the trees in the park and on a day with snow falling and the sun shining, it was, to say the least, a truly spectacular experience.

As I continued my tour, I tried to count the number of Greek shops around Astoria, especially on Ditmar Boulevarde, but I must have stopped at 40 before being distracted by the Greek bakery and the glika. In true Greek style, I was invited behind the counter to make use of the old fashioned village oven. Around the area you can’t escape such inventive Greek named shops as Athena Video Store, Akropolis Meat Market, Telly’s Taverna and Elliniki Agora Fruit and Vegetables.

Cultural Hub

There are many Greek associations in Astoria, which cater to a region in Greece or a sports affiliation. One place which stood out was the quaint Greek Cultural Centre. Antonis has featured in a number of plays here, but what struck me was the passion of theatre director, Maria. Her Centre plays host to many a Greek production and through it she has helped to influence many actors to reach their ‘dreams.’ Like any number of organisations I was fortunate to visit, I realised that the Centre was another way to ensure the longevity and connection with Greece. Theatre after all was one of the creations of our Hellenic ancestors and in Astoria it is thriving. At the Centre you can find Greek dancing, bouzouki classes, summer movies and a small Greek library.

The Future

There has been a slow decline in Greek numbers in Astoria, replaced by people of other nationalities, particularly from Mexico. There has been a trend for second or third generation Greeks to move further out, and many are marrying outside their Hellenic roots. A number of the shops are Greek owned though have long since stopped trading on the Greek theme and it is inevitable that the chirpy group of Greek men who meet at MacDonald’s will not be replaced at their usual table by a younger generation. However, as long as there is a hint of Yeeros in the air, soccer mad Greek supporters, aspiring actors or people who like to celebrate their unique cultural heritage, Astoria will remain what it is, a magnet to Greek speakers. This is especially true to the new Greek arrivals and those who enjoy picking up a Greek newspaper or the latest Greek movie. I am certain that the area will keep its Hellenic traditions.

Importantly, I met many people who were not Greek, who all appreciate the Greek character of the area. Daniel was one such person who I met at the Greek Diner and just like many others I came across, he was enthusiastic of his appraisal of the Greek identity of Astoria. For it makes it an even more interesting, unique experience to live in this xorio.

This is just a taste of Astoria, a theatre of Greek dreams! My few days here ensured that I was captive in the square mile radius of Hellenic Astoria. This colourful, Hellenic outpost has many more stories just waiting to be written. And you never know. On my next visit here, I might just pay a visit to New York itself.

Billy Cotsis

The resilient history of Cyprus

Cyprus has had more twists and turns than a TV soap…… if only it were a TV soap!

It was the end of winter and I had stopped off in Larnaca for a few days respite before my return to a freezing London. On a warm day, filled with plenty of sun shine, I thought I would make the 80 minute journey to see Nicosia and cross the ‘Green line,’ which marks the last divided capital in Europe.

Alexander’s Cultural Success…a Greek Village in Syria

Touched by the Mediterranean Sea and all the delights that an Arabic country can offer, Al Hamidiyah is a small village that is not much different to any other found in Syria. Except its population speaks Greek.

Continuing to beckon visitors: The island of Crete from an Australian perspective

It was my first day at work in London, a Wednesday as I recall, when my Kombaro called. “Billy, come over to Crete, you won’t regret it” By the Friday I had flown out to Crete to see what the fuss was all about…

Crete can elicit different emotions for different people. To the Greeks, it’s the symbol of uprisings and an indomitable spirit; to the Ottomans, a thorn in their side; to the Venetians, the jewel of their Mediterranean empire; and to the Germans, an almost impenetrable fortress.

To the Australians and the New Zealanders, it is a place of remembrance and camaraderie. As an Australian myself with a Greek background, I soon discovered what Crete means to a lot of people.

A Greek-Australian-Japanese Wedding in Stomio

It’s the phone call that I had waited years to receive…”Billy, I’m getting married.” Then the line went dead. A few moments later, George had called again to explain that he would be getting married in a matter of weeks in Stomio, Greece. 

George Manetakis has been my best friend since we first met in detention at primary school. As he often recalls, “We lost years of lunch-times, but gained even more years of friendship in return.”
 

Libya: The secret haven of Greek colonies

Arabic charm, Berber tribesmen, Islamic traditions, Mediterranean coast, pariah in the West. These are some of the tags we can ascribe to Libya when we think about that country.

Mention the name Ghadafi and one automatically associates it with Libya…

Mention the name Belisarius and you will draw a blank…but 1500 years ago this was a name associated with Libya. In fact before the coming of Islam in the 7th Century AD, northern Libya was a Greek-speaking territory.

A Greek village in Hungary: a story of the communist refugees

It’s funny how a simple request to visit friends can lead to another Hellenic Travels adventure. With winter in London seemingly at an end, I was invited to Budapest to visit a few of my Australian friends who had moved there.

As I always do before a simple visit to a foreign country I typed in the words ‘Greek’ and the destination country with the hope of locating a restaurant serving souvlakia and ouzo. The results that Google search returned astounded me. I found an article published in 1993 in the US about a Greek village in Hungary. The Greek village was located 60 km south of Budapest and before I knew it I had convinced my friends to take me to the mysterious Greek village of Hungary!

Restoration: Tunisia with a touch of Hellenism

Restoration. A word that stood out for me on my recent trip to Tunisia – a word which succinctly captures what the Greek community are aspiring to and what I in turn having been seeking for 10 years.

Tunisia is picturesque Mediterranean country. Pristine beaches to the north, the Sahara in the south, the Arab culture of the East and a touch of influence from the West (via the French colonial years). It has been a melting pot of history’s great cultures: Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Berbers, Arabs and Ottomans.

What most people won’t know is the long history of Greek speakers in Tunisia. Indeed, across North Africa, the presence of Greeks can be traced back to the merchants and traders who set up towns in Egypt in Antiquity through to the Byzantine occupation of the region from 535 AD – the last Byzantine territory to fall was Ceuta (Spanish enclave in Morocco) in 711 AD!! In fact, for the uninitiated, Greek cities could be found in Libya, notably Cyrenaica, Egypt under Alexander and the Ptolomies and a number of Byzantine cities developed in the 6th Century AD, as far a field as Algeria.